Adam Ondra continues his victory march on Dawn Wall
Further progress on Dawn Wall for Adam Ondra who free climbed the entire crux section yesterday and continued on to the Wino Tower. 11 relatively easy pitches still need to be climbed to complete the first repeat of this route on El Capitan in Yosemite, considered the hardest big wall in the world.
Adam Ondra’s victory march towards the summit of El Capitan continues at breakneck speed. The other evening Ondra managed to redpoint 2/3 of the crux section of Dawn Wall by sending the two 9a pitches, while yesterday he sent the 16th pitch. At this point there are two alternatives and Ondra opted to follow the Loop Pitch variation as Tommy Caldwell had done, instead of climbing the more direct Dyno Pitch with the famous dyno as per Kevin Jorgeson. Suddenly unshackled, Ondra then continued on to the Wino Tower which marks the end of the route’s major technical difficulties.
Eleven pitches now remain. And Ondra had climbed these relatively easily during the only time he inspected the upper section. The only thing that could stop the 23-year-old from achieving the coveted second ascent of Dawn Wall is a major shift in the weather. But Ondra won’t be taking any prisoners and already tomorrow he hopes to reach the summit with Pavel Blažek.
Only 11 “easy” pitches left for Ondra
On Instagram Ondra explained: “Made it to the Wino tower tonight! Deep satisfaction, peace and fire at the same time in my heart and soul. Perfect conditions today and perfect focus. That means only 11 “easy” (5.10 – 5.12) pitches left. We would have continued, but looks like it will rain soon. Which means forced restday tomorrow and hopefully finishing it off on Monday.”
After yesterday’s difficulties, the 23-year-old recounted “On cloud nine! It has been magical evening. I was focused and calm. The mindset when climbing is actually fun! Sent the pitch 14 (5.14d) on my first go after a little warm up. Then, after it got dark and having heartbreaking fall on the top of pitch 15 (5.14c or d), I could still give it one more shot and send it too. Skin feels too painful to continue tonight. But I will continue tomorrow!”
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