Barbara Zangerl has redpointed Speed Intégrale at Voralpsee

Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has redpointed Speed Intégrale at Voralpsee in Switzerland, her first 9a sports climb. It’s astounding how much the mind influences sports performance. How stress or anxiety can negatively impact your climbing even if your body is 100%. And, conversely, how close you can get to your physical limit if your have the right mindset.

One striking example in recent years. For instance, Alexander Megos, in 2013, has made the world’s first 9a onsight. But almost by accident. The German had wanted to try La Rambla that day. But, not knowing precisely where the route was, he decided to check out Estado Critico, just to see what the moves were like…

Barbara Zangerl and Speed

Another example now comes from Barbara Zangerl who we have repeatedly described as one of the most versatile rock climbers in the world. The Austrian has onsighted 8b, climbed 8B boulder, teetered her way up dangerous trad climbing up to E10. And repeated a vast selection of some of the hardest alpine sports climbs across the Alps and big wall climbs up El Capitan in Yosemite. And, as of yesterday, her sports climbing curriculum also boats 9a redpoint.


The 29-year-old made her way to Voralpsee in Switzerland where she had been working Speed Intégrale. This route is the 9a extension freed by Cedric Lachat in 2010 to Beat Kammerlander’s 8c+ Speed. Against all expectations, having completed her nightshift at 7am at Bludenz hospital where she works as assistant radiologist, she clipped the anchors in the evening. An interesting detail: she had never sent Speed before ! And, after having trained specifically for the extension, she powered her way straight to the upper chain.

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