How to improve power endurance on the hangboard

Intense, sometimes boring but extremely efficient! Developing power endurance and resistance on the hangboard allows us to pinpoint the effort in respect to the forearms and to even go further thanks to interval training. La Fabrique Verticale offers you three types of circuits in which all aspects and subtleties are addressed. This is ideal for becoming a stronger and keeping those pumped forearms at bay!

Advantages of training on the hangboard

Why subject yourself to this intense method – that is not always gratifying- which consists of hanging for a given amount of time with brief amounts of recuperation? Clearly, the idea is to reproduce that (not so enjoyable) sensation of being completely fatigued in the forearms that is felt at the end of route, when you just can’t hold on any longer. In one word, “pumped” !

Training on a hangboard does not replace the development of technical proficiency and tactics but it does provide a small margin of strength which allows us to last longer on routes

Advantages of the hangboard

• Ability to target intensity and the ability to develop anaerobic lactic capacity
• Shorter amount of time needed to train in comparison to going to the crag or the rockgym
• Specific targeting to work the forearm muscles to the point of exhaustion while maintaining a grip on the holds
• Psychological gains with improvement in the capacity to resist pain despite the accumulation of lactic acid

Warning, resistance training on the hangboard means intensity. It is crucial to have a thoroughly warmed up with particular attention given to the finger joints (use a hand exerciser and then hang from large holds).

Some examples of circuits

> The Classic: 20’’/40’’
The principal is simplicity : 20 seconds of suspension from two hands, followed by 40 seconds of rest

Level: Beginners to Advanced

Method:
Select holds that you can hang from for more than 20 seconds using two hands. Proceed with the sequence of 20’ seconds of hanging followed by 40’ seconds of rest, for as many times as possible. Ideally, this should not last longer than 6-7 minutes (If you need to, reduce the size of the holds in order to stay within this timeframe).

Sequence Example :

• [(20 s of suspension / 40 s of rest) maximum amount of repetitions] x 2 to 3 sets
• Substantial rest period between each set (5 to 7 minutes)
• Total amount of work volume between 2 and 7 minute

Advancement:
You can eventually increase to 30 seconds of suspension and 30 seconds of rest (For experts, up to 40 seconds of suspension followed by 20 seconds of rest), to reinforce the ‘pumped’ effect on the forearms.

>Must do: The Straight 6
The maximum amount of suspensions possible are indispensable for developing long lasting endurance !

Level: Beginner to Advanced

Method:
Select 6 pairs of holds that you can hang from for more than 20 seconds (with two hands). Start with hanging from the first pair of holds for as long as possible. Once you fall off, go directly to the second pair for as long as possible and repeat this process through the last pair of holds. By maximizing the variations of grips and selecting different sizes of holds we can make the most of this game.

Sequence Example:

• [2 to 3 x (6 suspensions until exhaustion] x 2 to 3 sets
• Rest period that is equal to the duration of the 6 suspensions
• Substantial rest period between each set (5 to 7 minutes)

Beginners can simplify the exercise by placing their feet on a chair that is put in front of the hangboard. Experts can do the contrary and therefore make the game more difficult by selecting smaller and smaller holds.

>Boiling Hot : 10’’/10’’
In order to shake things up and work on a variety of different grips, the 10/10 is truly ideal!

Level: Advanced

Method:
Select different pairs of holds on which you can hang and follow up for 10 seconds followed by 10 more seconds until complete exhaustion. The total time spent on each pair of holds is 8 seconds, followed by two seconds that is used for transitioning to the following pair.

Sequence Example:

• [2 to 3 x (8’ s of hanging / 2’ s of transition) maximum amount of repeats] x 2 to 3 sets
• Rest period that is equal to the duration of the time spent suspended
• Substantial rest period between each set (10 to 15 minutes)

There is virtually no rest during each set, so pay special attention to placing your fingers on the holds correctly before continuing the suspension exercise