I climb, so I brush !

The use of chalk is widespread in climbing. Whether it’s in powder form, crunchy, in gel form, or even liquid, chalk is an essential part of the gear for almost all climbers. In fact, very few can do without it.

Nevertheless, with the increasing popularity of climbing, the use of chalk is not without its ecological or ethical issues. How can we continue climbing while respecting our environment and the practices of others? It’s simple: Let’s brush!

Magnesium and Climbing: Why and How

Should we remind ourselves here? The function of chalk is to absorb excessive hand sweat. This improves friction with holds, especially holds grabbed with a pinch or open hands, like slopers, as demonstrated here.

However, the coefficient of friction depends on several factors: the contact surface, the cleanliness of the holds, skin deformation or wear, humidity… And for this last factor, less is more, as shown in this 2015 thesis: It is indeed important for climbers to remove excess moisture from their hands. But not too much! Thus, agents that excessively dry the skin, such as isopropyl alcohol (used in the production of liquid magnesium chalk), can have a counterproductive effect on friction.

For example, the most passionate boulder competition enthusiasts probably remember the Aspen stage during which Adam Ondra, with overly dry skin, had to regularly moisten his hands to regain some semblance of friction.

One must still have some control over its use. For instance, it is often observed among beginner (or experienced) climbers using liquid chalk that they don’t wait for the solvent to evaporate before starting their boulder problem or route. This has the disastrous effect of coating the holds with a film that makes them slippery. Some also think that the amount of chalk “carried” on their hands matters. Unfortunately for them, by not wiping their hands after dipping them in the chalk bag, by not getting rid of the excess chalk, they end up with a true ball bearing under their fingers and palm when they place their hands on the holds.

Chalk, Environment, and Performance

When considering outdoor climbing, on boulders or cliffs, it’s undeniable that human activity has an impact on the environment, especially when it concentrates in limited areas. In the same way, the mere act of depositing chalk repeatedly on the holds has consequences for the living species that develop there, sometimes with great difficulty.

It’s quite ironic to think that the health of climbers themselves can be impacted by the intensive use of chalk, especially when climbing indoors.

Furthermore, it’s worth noting that the presence of chalk and its accumulation on the holds has a negative influence even on the desire to climb, as shown in a study conducted among recreational climbers.

From a performance perspective, we know that the buildup of chalk on holds leads to them becoming clogged and impairs friction. When we see how holds are caked with chalk in certain boulder areas or on the busiest cliffs, we can assume that many climbers are not aware of this. Yet climbing has never been so widely publicized, competitions have never been watched so extensively via streaming. And what do we see, between attempts? Climbers themselves or members of the organization meticulously brushing the holds. How can we not understand the cause-and-effect relationship then?

Why Brush the Holds?

Brushing to Clean

There’s no need to climb 9a to brush holds! Just by placing our hands and feet on holds, we leave behind a mess of grease (sebum), dust, sweat, skin or rubber fragments, chalk, sand, or dirt… And when holds are dirty like that, we’re forced to grip them tighter, increasing the risk of slipping and expending more energy.

In short, brushing holds helps clean them and maintain their grip and texture! There’s no wrong technique. You can make small circles or back-and-forth motions. The key is to brush!

An Ethical Matter

In golf, there’s an etiquette that includes, for example, repairing divots or raking bunkers. The meaning of these practices is simple: respect for other players, allowing them to practice under the same conditions we’ve benefited from with a perfectly maintained course.

Brushing is a simple way to leave the rock or holds in slightly better condition than when we found them for the climbers who will come after us, ensuring they have maximum enjoyment!

When and Why to Brush?

• Simply when coming down from a route or boulder problem to remove excess chalk left on holds, especially on rest holds.
• After working on a route or problem to remove tick marks and preserve the onsight experience for the following climbers.
• Especially when the cliff never sees rain, in overhangs, to clean and remove excess chalk.
• In bouldering, remove excess chalk before and after an attempt, even after successfully sending the problem, before moving on to the next one.

Climbing Brushes

Toothbrushes, Yes, but…

For a long time, the preferred tool for climbers has been a simple toothbrush. Their small head adapts to all hold shapes, including pockets, for which they are almost ideal. Unfortunately, since the mad cow disease crisis in the early 90s, natural bristle brushes are no longer available. Synthetic bristles, when they wear out, release plastic particles into the environment, not to mention that the brushing quality is not always top-notch, especially with recycled brushes. So, keep them for indoor climbing or for brushing holds on your training board, if you don’t have a brush specifically designed for that purpose.

Brushes for Climbers

Currently, the market is flooded with brush models. Suffice it to say, there are no more excuses!

However, before buying, it’s good to understand what the brush will be used for and keep in mind some criteria that will help make the right choice.

Will the brush be dedicated to bouldering or routes? If it’s just for bouldering, then size doesn’t matter. But if it’s a brush that will be used on walls or cliffs, then it should be easy to carry, whether it’s slipped into the chalk bag’s designated pocket or attached to the harness with a cord.

What is the shape of the holds you’ll be brushing? If they are exclusively slopers or large areas, then it’s best to choose brushes with a large brushing surface. If, on the other hand, you climb on thin edges or pockets, you’ll prefer smaller brush heads.

The quality of the bristles also matters: horsehair, thin and flexible, is ideal for soft rocks like sandstone. Boar bristles, more robust, are versatile and provide very effective cleaning. Finally, synthetic bristles, more aggressive, are reserved for use on artificial holds.

Similarly, you should pay attention to the density of the bristles: high density offers effective brushing without the need for much pressure. This is a definite advantage and also extends the brush’s lifespan.

Some brushes have decreasing bristle lengths (longer bristles at the end of the head). This option is very interesting because it prolongs the brushes’ lifespan. There’s a “reserve” of bristles in the area that is most solicited.

Finally, the handle or support is also important. Even if most plastic brushes are made from recycled materials, once they’re worn out, you’ll have no choice but to dispose of them. This is not the case with wood or bamboo. A side note on bamboo: it’s very durable, reducing the risk of handle breakage when brushing vigorously!

Some Examples of Brushes

Below is a small, non-exhaustive sample of what you can find on the market. We also take this opportunity to thank the manufacturers who graciously provided them to us.

For each model, we have indicated the main characteristics that will hopefully help you make an initial choice.

Baton

• Length: 18 cm
• Materials: Wood + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 4 x 1.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 3 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Flexible
• Use: Bouldering
• Note: The most unique one, for selfie lovers!

Chupa Climb

• Length: 18.5 cm
• Materials: Plastic + High-density natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 6 x 1.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.5 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing
• Note: Sturdy brush with cool colors!

Climbingbrush Bloc

• Length: 10.5 cm
• Materials: Wood + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 10 x 3 cm
• Bristle Length: 2 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Flexible
• Use: Handleless brush for bouldering
• Note: Compact brush specially designed for slopers

Climbingbrush Mixte

• Length: 17 cm
• Materials: Beechwood + Dual hardness natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 6.5 x 1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.5 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Mixed: stiff in the center, flexible on the periphery
• Use: Bouldering – Climbing
• Note: Mixed bristle stiffness for deep cleaning

Climbingbrush Souple

• Length: 18 cm
• Materials: Beechwood + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 6 x 1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.5 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Flexible
• Use: Bouldering – Climbing
• Note: Ergonomic handle

Enove E9 Brush

• Length: 16.5 cm
• Materials: Recycled plastic + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: Up to 6 x 2 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.3 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Intermediate flexibility
• Use: Flats, edges. Bouldering, climbing
• Note: Enove’s classic. The brushing width is wider at the wear zone (end of the brush).

Enove E9 Lilbrush

• Length: 16 cm
• Materials: Recycled plastic + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: 5.5 x 0.8 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.2 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Pockets, thin edges. Bouldering, climbing
• Note: A mini brush for delicate work.

Enove E9 Woodbrush

• Length: 18 cm
• Materials: Wood + Natural bristles
• Brushing Surface: Up to 9 x 2.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.8 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Flexible
• Use: Flats – Bouldering
• Note: A beautiful object. Sandpaper zone for skin integrated on the handle.

Enove E9 Woody

• Length: 15.5 cm
• Materials: Beechwood + Boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 5.5 x 1.2 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.2 cm
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges and holes
• Note: A small backup brush.

I’bbz FriXion Double

• Length: 25 cm
• Materials: Wood + Boar and horsehair bristles
• Brushing Surface: 10 x 1.5 cm – 2 sides
• Bristle Length: 2 cm – constant length
• Flexibility: Two levels of flexibility; soft or intermediate depending on the chosen side
• Use: Bouldering – Flats
• Notes: The basic brush for bouldering. Fits on the I’bbz pole.

I’bbz FriXion+

• Length: 25 cm
• Materials: Wood + Boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 10 x 1.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 2 cm, constant length
• Flexibility: Soft

I’bbz FriXion

• Length: 17 cm
• Materials: Wood + Boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 6 x 1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.2 cm, constant length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges and holes
• Note: Fits on the I’bbz pole.

I’bbz FriXion XXL

• Length: 40 cm!
• Materials: Wood + Boar or horsehair bristles
• Brushing Surface: 8 x 3 cm, 2 sides
• Bristle Length: 2 to 2.5 cm, decreasing length
• Flexibility: Soft and intermediate
• Use: Bouldering; edges and flats
• Note: Fits on the I’bbz pole to reach even higher!

Kruxbrush Moyenne

• Length: 20.5 cm
• Materials: Stained Birch + Fine horsehair bristles
• Brushing Surface: 7 x 1.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.7 to 1.4 cm, decreasing length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges and flats
• Note: A versatile brush. Beautiful handle.

Kruxbrush Grande

• Length: 23.5 cm
• Materials: Birch or Oak + Fine horsehair bristles
• Brushing Surface: 7 x 1.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 2 to 1.4 cm, decreasing length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering; edges and flats
• Note: Beautifully designed handle.

Nature Climbing Brush S

• Length: 17.7 cm
• Materials: Maple + Boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 7 x 1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.6 cm
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges and flats
• Note: Superb finish; 100% handmade brushes. Personalized inscription on the handle.

Nature Climbing Brush L

• Length: 18.5 cm
• Materials: Maple + Boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 8 x 2 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.9 cm
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges and flats
• Note: Same as above. The “Brush Set” includes both the S and L brushes, plus a sanding block, all packaged in a nice cardboard box.

Petzl

• Length: 17.5 cm
• Materials: Beechwood + High-density boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 6 x 1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.6 to 0.9 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Bouldering and climbing; edges, holes, and flats
• Note: A new release presented exclusively! Simple and robust brush. We liked the high bristle density and the various types of holes for threading a cord.

YY Vertical – Infinity Brush Large

• Length: 19.5 cm
• Materials: Bamboo + High-density synthetic bristles
• Brushing Surface: 7 x 3 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.9 to 1.6 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Hard
• Use: Indoor bouldering, flats
• Note: A brush for indoor bouldering. Fine and rigid tips work wonders on plastic and resin.

YY Vertical – Infinity Brush Small

• Length: 17.5 cm
• Materials: Bamboo + High-density synthetic bristles
• Brushing Surface: 5.5 x 1.1 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.9 to 1.6 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Hard
• Use: Indoor bouldering, edges and holes
• Note: The version to take with you on routes, always indoors.

YY Vertical – Vertical Brush Large

• Length: 17.5 cm
• Materials: Wood + High-density boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 7.5 x 2.5 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.6 to 1.3 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Outdoor bouldering, edges, and flats
• Note: High bristle density for optimal brushing.

YY Vertical – Vertical Brush Small

• Length: 17.5 cm
• Materials: Wood + High-density boar bristles
• Brushing Surface: 5.5 x 1.3 cm
• Bristle Length: 1.6 to 1.3 cm – decreasing length
• Flexibility: Intermediate
• Use: Outdoor bouldering, edges, and holes
• Note: The cliff brush, simple and effective.

And now, let’s brush !!