Training for climbing : Campus-Board Fundamentals

campus-board-training
When used properly, the campus-board is one the best tools we have available for developing climbing specific power. However, campus-boards are also the training tool that is most commonly used incorrectly. If you are going to campus, taking the time to master the campus-board fundamentals is critical to not only getting the most out of your training, but also to stay injury free.

To help you get started campusing or correct any bad habits, here’s an article by climbing coach and trainer Neil Gresham where he outlines the campus-board fundamentals all climbers need to know before adding any campusing into their training.

“Campusing has clear benefits for improved contact strength (the ability to latch a hold at speed) and explosive arm power, yet this method of training has clear risks: incorrect practices can lead to serious injury, and your technique and core strength can suffer. If you don’t overdo it and stick carefully to protocol, a campus board is a potent weapon, alongside bouldering and hangboarding, to the strength training armory.” – Neil Gresham

climbing-campus-board-training

Campus-Board Fundamentals

Before going into any of the exercises you can do on a campus-board, Gresham covers the following topics to make sure climbers correct any potentially dangerous/injurious habits:

– Safety Protocol
– Grip Types
– Number of Sets

Then, to give you an idea of the different exercise you can do campusing, Gresham outlines the basics. Like laddering, touches, bumps, and doubles. Not only does Gresham describe how to do these exercises. But he also tells you how to progress their difficulty. This way, as you improve and exercises become easier and easier you can continue to make power gains.

If you have never campused before, this article will give you a good idea of the campus-board fundamentals. Click through below to read it for yourself. Then, if you decide to add campusing into your training, proceed carefully. And really take Gresham’s safe protocols to heart. No amount of power gains is worth being sidelined by injury.

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4 Responses

  1. Kestufoula says:

    Bonjour Laurence.
    Je pense que le lien vers l’article complet est erroné. Impossible d’aller sur le site d’origine.
    Pendant que j’y suis : bravo pour votre site ! Une vrai mine d’info ! 😊

  2. Aurèle B. says:

    Petite note : l’article soutient que faire du Gullïch en tendu serait plus fangereux que en mode “Chisel” ou semi-arqué.

    Or une étude réalisé par le Kinésithérapeute de l’equipe de France de difficulté montre que l’effort supporté par les poulies lors de la grimpe en arqué est nettement plus important que lors du tendue.

    En dehors de cette erreur, l’article est plutôt bon !

    • Olivier says:

      Salut Aurèle.
      Merci pour ton commentaire. On est bien d’accord sur le fait que les contraintes en arqué sont bien supérieures que celles en semi-arqué ou en tendu. Nous avons d’ailleurs publié plusieurs revues d’articles de Laurent Vigouroux ou autres sur le sujet. Mais je ne pense cependant pas que Neil a fait cette confusion : il évoque (et la photo le montre bien), une préhension certes tendue, mais en TROIS doigts : on a dans cette configuration une contrainte très forte qui s’exerce sur l’annulaire, dont on sait que c’est sans doute le doigt le plus fragile.
      Heureux donc les grimpeurs qui ont les doigts courts et sans trop de différences de longueurs, qui peuvent faire du “tendu” 4 doigts 🙂

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