Build Your Training Around Your Life (And Not The Reverse)

training bouldering

You may think that as climbing coaches, our primary job is to load a ton of work onto our clients. You might be surprised to hear that when new clients come to us we often have to reduce their training quantity. Many climbers are doing too much. As coaches, we help my clients pare down their routines and figure out what to focus on.

There is nearly an infinite amount of training information on the Internet. And about a million different protocols. You may often feel as if you are missing out on something important or aren’t doing enough to push yourself toward your goals. But the reality is that you likely need to eliminate some training protocols. And narrow your focus.

What are your non-negotiables?

Committing to a training plan inevitably means making some sacrifices. But you shouldn’t dread each time you go to the gym for your workout. Or loathe everything you’re doing. A negative attitude can lead to burnout. Showing up consistently is one of the most important parts of training, so think of what is necessary to keep your stoke alive.

Kilter-board climbing training

As an example, perhaps one of your favorite parts of climbing is connecting with others. While not every session can be a social one during your training program, you can decide that the bouldering meetup you and your friends do every Thursday is non-negotiable. Based on this, you plan your workouts so that your limit bouldering session is on Thursday. This way you can work on projects with your friends. And use your conversations to take the necessary longer rests between attempts. Knowing you get to climb with your friends helps you push through the tougher workouts and keeps you motivated throughout the program.

How to create a training plan ?

To create your training plan, start by choosing two to three priorities based on your goals, strengths/weaknesses, and non-negotiables. Perform these priorities consistently for at least three to four weeks before trying to add more. If you feel like you have the capacity to take more on, you can introduce other training activities that support your priorities. However, if these items start to take time and energy from your original priorities, you’re better off paring down.

Simple does not always mean easy and sticking to two to three priorities over time will yield better results than doing too much and burning out after only two weeks.


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