Adam Ondra Silence Film : Performance Analysis for climbers
Silence : this past September, Adam Ondra established the world’s first 5.15d/9c in Norway. He climbed Silence in the huge cave of Flatanger. Establishing the hardest route in the world is not simple because of the complexity of the route. However, it’s even more valuable for us to look at Adam’s accomplishment from the perspective of learning about how we can all better our own climbing performance.
For Adam to finish Silence, this multi-year project, he changed his training to meet the specific demands of the route. He followed a strict injury prevention and self-care routine. And even employed next level visualization tactics. Luckily for us, Adam just released a short film by Bernardo Giménez showcasing his send and everything that went into it. Prepare to be inspired!
The movie does a great job showing Adam’s scientific approach to working this route. He made a long-term, multi-year commitment to developing the skills, strength, power, endurance, strategy, and belief needed to make this free climb a reality. Just as important is his support system—coach/physio, girlfriend/partner, sponsors, friends and family. As in most every great individual achievement, there’s a team of individuals behind the scenes that are vitally important.
Adam Ondra : Silence Film
However, there’s a lot more we can get out of watching Adam climb Silence than simply being amazed by the difficulty. Adam didn’t climb 9c just because he’s that much stronger than everyone else. When you watch his send go, you are watching someone climb perfectly. He moves through staggeringly difficult sequences with astounding speed and precision.
Whether you’re a weekend warrior or aspiring pro climber, there’s a lot you can learn from Adam—powerful performance “clues” and vital bioenergetic “keys” to their successful ascents. Pushing personal boundaries, no matter if it’s 5.13a/7c+ or 5.15d/9c, demands near perfection of mind and movement. As well as highly nuanced long-term training and total commitment (and sacrifice).
Read here the complete performance analysis