Climbing and research : the 4 th IRCRA congress Chamonix 2018

The 4th International Rock Climbing Research Association Congress is going to be held in Chamonix, France from 9th to 14th July 2018. The conference will highlight the latest results from world leading researchers in the field of rock climbing. The IRCRA 4th Congress is the last congress of the association before the Olympics in Tokyo 2020. This congress will be an opportunity to share the state of art regarding the research in climbing with an inter-disciplinary approach (humanities, social sciences, life sciences, engineering, etc.).

It will be also an opportunity to bridge the gap between scientists and coaches around the world. That’s why IRCRA chose to organize the congress at the same time as the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) speed and lead World Cups. This is also why this congress will be supported and hosted by the IFSC and its representative Marco Scolaris. To bridge this gap, the “training day” will be organized on Saturday, July 14, 2018.

Planning

Sunday, July 8, 2018

Time Event
16:00 – 19:00 Welcome – Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress – ENSA Reception Hall

Monday, July 9, 2018

Time Event
08:00 – 09:30 Welcome – Reception of participants at the 4th IRCRA Congress – ENSA Reception Hall
09:30 – 10:30 Official opening (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Marie-Noëlle FLEURY, Sport Deputy Mayor of Chamonix (France) – Nick DRAPER, IRCRA President (New Zealand)
10:30 – 11:30 From free climbing emergence to the Olympic games recognition (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Marco SCOLARIS, IFSC President (Italia)

11:30 – 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)

13:30 – 14:30 Keynotes: Fight gravity – Biomechanics of rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Franck QUAINE (France)
14:30 – 16:30 Biomechanics&Engineering (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Franck QUAINE (France)
16:30 – 17:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
17:00 – 18:00 All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) – Poster Session
18:00 – 19:00 Keynote 02: Stances: is improving possible? Anchoring equalization of a stance in mountaineering and climbing activities (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Vittorio BEDOGNI (Italia)

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Time Event
08:30 – 09:00 Keynote: Growth plate injuries prevention regarding young climber competitors (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Kathleen BOJOLY (France)
09:00 – 09:30 Keynote: Climber’s finger injuries (Amphithéatre ENSA) – François MOUTET (France)
09:30 – 11:30 Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Gareth JONES (UK)

11:30 – 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)

13:30 – 15:30 Medicine (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Gareth JONES (UK)
15:30 – 16:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
16:00 – 17:00 Keynote: Hemodynamic responses to rock climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Simon FRYER (UK)
17:00 – 19:00 Physiology (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Vanessa ESPAÑA-ROMERO (Spain)
19:00 – 20:00 High level climber testimony – About a different life (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Nina CAPREZ (Switzerland)

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Time Event
08:00 – 09:00 Reception and registration of participants at the sociology day – ENSA Reception Hall
09:00 – 09:30 Keynote: The three dimension of climbing sportization (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland)
09:30 – 10:00 Keynote: The issue of climbing Olympic Inclusion (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Marc LE MENESTREL (Spain)
10:00 – 10:30 The introduction of Sport Climbing at Tokyo 2020’s Olympic Games: analysis of the controversy in France (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Augustin ROGEAUX (France)
10:30 – 11:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
11:00 – 12:30 History, Sociology & Law (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Round table – Olympisation: issues, questions and concerns

12:30 – 14:00 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)

14:00 – 14:20 Climbing: a variety of sport practices and alcohol consumptions (Amphithéatre ENSA) – François FELIU (France)
14:20 – 14:40 An Examination of Climbers’ Information-Seeking Behaviors for Injury Care and Prevention (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Tallie CASUCCI (USA)
14:40 – 15:00 Climbing as a worksite intervention: An strategy for climbing walls acceptance in business in México (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Aline GONZÁLEZ-MORENO (Mexico)
15:00 – 15:30 Keynote: Climbing tourism experience (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Jillian RICKLY (UK)
15:30 – 15:50 Collecting the Local History of Climbing in Utah: Looking back, moving forward (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Tallie CASUCCI (USA)
15:50 – 16:20 Economic impact of climbing in the United States: lessons on data and the outdoor revolution (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Olivier AUBEL (Switzerland)
16:30 – 17:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
17:00 – 18:30 Round table (Amphithéatre ENSA) – The Legal, Economic and Spatial Stakes of Climbing as a Tourism-Market

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Time Event
08:30 – 20:30 Rest Day – Free day freed for hiking arround the Mont Blanc and to attend the IFSC Speed and Lead World Cups

Friday, July 13, 2018

Time Event
08:30 – 09:30 Keynote 09: Beyond mental skills training: creating psychologically robust climberathletes (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Rebecca WILLIAMS (UK)
09:30 – 11:30 Psychology (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Xavier SANCHEZ (Sweden)

11:30 – 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)

13:30 – 15:30 All (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) – Poster session
15:30 – 16:00 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
16:00 – 17:00 Pedagogy & Didactics (Salle des Maquettes ENSA) – Poster session
16:00 – 17:00 Perceptual motor skills in climbing: expertise and learning (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Ludovic SEIFERT (France)
17:00 – 19:00 Motor Control & Pedagogy (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Ludovic SEIFERT (France)
20:00 – 23:00 IFSC lead Word Cup – Women and Men finals followed by fireworks

Saturday, July 14, 2018 : Training day

Time Event
08:00 – 09:00 Reception of participants for the training day – ENSA Reception Hall
09:00 – 09:15 Presentation of the day (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France)
09:15 – 09:25 Welcome (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Pierre YOU (President of the FFME, France)
09:25 – 10:00 Training in sport climbing : past, present and the Olympic constraints (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Pierre-Henry PAILLASSON (FFME – France)
09:30 – 10:30 Keynote: Training for international speed climbing events (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Sylvain CHAPELLE (France)
11:00 – 12:00 Keynote: Enhancing workspace and use of momentum in climbing (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Udo NEUMANN (Germany)

12:00 – 13:30 Lunch (Restaurant ENSA)

13:30 – 15:10 Training (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Olivier BROUSSOULOUX (France)
15:10 – 15:45 Coffee break (Salle des Maquettes ENSA)
16:00 – 17:00 Keynote: Competition climbing – developing future champions (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Urs STÖCKER (Switzerland)
16:45 – 17:45 Keynote: Training for international combined events (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Yasui HIROSHI (Japan)
17:45 – 18:45 General discussion (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Round Table
18:45 – 19:15 Qualitative analysis of two of 2017’s greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirement (Amphithéatre ENSA) – Eric HÖRST (USA)
19:15 – 19:30 Training day closing speech (Amphithéatre ENSA)
20:30 – 23:55 Closing Gala (Brasserie de l’M)