Why japanese climbers are so strong ?

Japanese climbers are showing off their strength, especially in bouldering competitions. Akiyo Nogushi, Miho Nonaka, Kokoro Fujii, Tomoa Narasaki… Why are they so strong ? We have met one of the japanese coaches, Yasui Hiroshi, who is going to be present during the 4th International Rock Climbing Research Congress in Chamonix. Towards Olympic Games Tokyo 2020, bridge the gap between sciences and training in climbing 😉

You are well-knowed by japanese climbers. But can you introduce yourself as a coach ?

I taught climbing for 16 years. I’m now in charge of the japanese climbers.

How did you become a climbing trainer?

I started teaching at a climbing club of high school 16 years ago. And I instructed the Japanese youth national team for seven years. Since last year I am a head coach of Japan national team. I’m also a climber of course.

When teaching top-level climbers, what is your way of thinking? And what is the most important thing for you?

The most important thing is to respect the independence of players. And I think that the most important thing is to bring out the unique features the player has and developing.

Sports climbing is becoming an Olympic sports. What will change for you for training?

As the amount of athlete training increases and you need to raise many abilities, you need to strengthen the basic physical strength in a well-balanced manner, if you want to win.

Boulder / speed / lead combination… What is the importance of the choice of the IFSC?

I think people all over the world were the best choice for seeing three events.

How can Boulder training bring out the methodology known to work in other sports?

This is a difficult question, but it is possible to adapt the training theory of other sports to climbing. But there are parts to watch out for.

What are your expectations for Chamonix’s IRCRA conference?

I hope that I can touch various ways of thinking.

What is a better way to improve the dissemination of scientific knowledge to local or regional trainers with the aim of improving the overall level of climbing?

I think that a place of dissemination of information is necessary.

Do you think there is sufficient knowledge exchange between the nation and generation?

I do not think I am still doing each other.

Read also the interview of one of the german coaches, Udo Neumann and Urs Stöcker